Tour De Korea (Leg 1 Day 3)

My final full day in Jeju I rented a car. Originally I'd planned on renting a scooter but the freezing temps made that idea rather fool hardy. I managed to talk to the front desk and they did the translating for me with the Avis guy. Due to the nature of multiple translators and such... it meant a late start for the day. I finally got out of the hotel parking lot around 11:30 with a car that ran on LPG (liquid propane gas) and had a Korean only navigation system that also told speed and where the radar traps were. In Korea they don't have cops sitting around with radar guns. They have specific places where they patrol by video camera. So these are all well documented. The little navigation system would start to beep and put a little circle up with the speed I needed to be at in it and when I made that speed going through the zone it would do a fun little ringing sound like getting points on a video game. It would also talk to me in Korean. I really did have fun back behind the wheel of a car again. Thankfully the signs on Jeju are in Korean, English and Japanesse. I was trying to just stay on the road that had the right number so I could go around the eastern side of the Island. I wanted to go to the haenyseo museum and see the women divers that have become very famous for free diving for more than 2 minutes at a time. I eventually found where I was headed and had a nice wander through the exhibits. Most of the gear they use looked like antiques from when diving was starting. I also had one of two really fun conversations there. I was looking at an exhibit and an slightly older gentleman approached me. "Roussian?" I looked at him like really? You serious? and responded "Anio, Meigook" (No, American) He then babbled something that was like oh really where? Why are you here?" I managed "Georgia, Sosingnym, Taegu" There were a few laughs... a big smile "Younglro Sosingnym?" "Nay" (English teacher? Yes) I understood he then wanted to know how many days I was there and I said 3. He turned around and walked off to his friends where I could tell he was recounting what he'd found out. 1. I wasn't a Russian hooker. 2. I was an English teacher in Taegu. 3. I liked Korea. I over heard the conversation replay and realized I was getting pretty good at understanding some Korean even if I can't really speak it yet or read it.


After that I drove a little further up the coast to an area that had lava tubes. I found the entrance and paid my fee to go in. As I walked down I saw the signs that crushed my hopes... no pictures. Crap! Ok... lets see what this is like. All of those geology classes in college had developed a decent interest in this sort of thing any way topped off by teaching earth science for a few years. I noticed that there wasn't much light down in the tube and they had signs saying they keep it dark for the protection of the tube. (Not sure if that was a bad translation or what.) I got to the bottom and started walking and realized this is one of those times when having a traveling companion would have been nice. Not a minute later I hear someone slip a little right behind me. I quickly turned around to see if I could help. I asked a woman if she was ok, as I reached a hand out to steady her. She nodded yes. Then asked if I was alone too. This was done in rather broken English and Korean. I was like yeah. She then using hand gestures asked if it was ok if we walked through together. Of course sure. She looked to be maybe 45 not Korean but some sort of Asian decent. (remember low lighting) As we walked (it was a mile long trip) we chatted in a mix of Korean, English, and Japanese. I knew a little Korean, and English. She knew a little Korean, a even less English, and Japanese. So with lots of hand gestures we covered that I was American living in Taegu, and a teacher. She was on vacation from Japan. We talked about geology and how neither of us had seen anything like that before. Now lava tunnels have very uneven floors with cracks and bumps and this one was damp and slick in some places. I did a good deal of walking across choosing paths then reaching a hand back to help her along. When we came out of the tunnel we said good bye and waved and smiled. It's those sorts of encounters that make traveling alone fun. I learned a little more about myself and communication.

I made it to Jeju city and had a nice dinner of bibimbap before heading to Loveland and the mysterious road. I'm not going to describe Loveland. It was fun and went along with Jeju being a place for honeymoons.

As it was getting dark I pulled out the map and figured out the quickest way back to the hotel was across the island. I miscalculated where the road went in comparison to Mt. Halla. I ended up driving over it, with snow, wind and curvy roads.

I got back to the side of the island the hotel was on and realized I needed to add propane to the tank. In Korea it's all full service, it's just a matter of finding a propane not a gas station. I found one managed to explain that I needed a fill up and for 8,000 won or so I refilled the propane tank in the trunk. It was pretty cool. I'll drive in Korea again, but not in the cities where driving is a competitive sport that makes Atlanta look like a leisurely stroll with Sunday drivers who are polite. Here driving is allowed on sidewalks, turn signals are used, but so are Hazards as you cut in front of a car with inches to spare. I've learned to just relax and ignore the taxi drivers' driving. I just watch the tv in the cab or try to not think about how close we were to just becoming part of that bus.
That wraps up Jeju, the next day I caught a plane back to Taegu and did laundry in preparation for my trip to Busan.